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1、COPYRIGHT 2023 ALARICE INTERNATIONAL ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.FIRST PRINTING,202310F,IUKI TOWER,5 OBRIEN RD,WAN CHAI,HONG KONGGemma A.Williams is a globally-focused writer and curator with a particular interest in the China fashion industry,Chinese designers and brands,luxury and fragrance.Her bespoke ag
2、ency creates fashion narratives informed by cutlure.Currently she covers the China market for Vogue Business,South China Morning Post and Forbes.GEMMA A.WILLIAMSWANT TO TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE DESIGNS?SCAN AND STEP INTO OUR 3D SHOWROOM POWERED BY ONEWAYX.ASHLEY DUDARENOK Ashley Dudarenok is a Chin
3、ese serial entrepreneur,award-winning digital expert,author and keynote speaker.She is the founder of ChoZan 超赞,a China digital consultancy,and Alarice,a digital marketing agency.She and her team help companies learn for and from China and has worked with Chinese tech giants and some of the worlds m
4、ost loved Fortune 500 brands.FASHION CHINA:35 INDEPENDENT CHINESE DESIGNERS TO WATCH IN 2024 ASHLEY DUDARENOK GEMMA A.WILLIAMSCONTENTIntroductionThe PioneersFeng Chen WangChenpengShushu/tongStaffonlyPRONOUNCEPrivate PolicyThe ArtisansXu ZhiShuting QiuCaroline HuSusan FangHomegrown HeroesMing MaShort
5、 Sentence8on8The IntellectualsOude WaagSamuel Gui YangXimon Lee004010012018024030036042050052058064070078080086092100102108114Textile InnovatorsNans KnitsSwaying/KnitOsmosPH5ZI II CI IENThe New WaveRuohanLouis Shengtao ChenShie LyuZixin ZhongJacques WeiThe DisruptersRuiBad Binch TongtongYueqi QiDidu
6、WindowsenThe ExplorersLeaf XiaSocial-workDonsee10Tommy ZhongConclusionCopyright and Disclaimer Contact Us122124130136142148156158164170176182190192198204210216224226232238244252254256We are thrilled to present our meticulously curated report,Fashion China:35 Independent Chinese Designers to Watch in
7、 2024.Here we offer a comprehensive overview of the countrys domestic fashion landscape which depicts a dynamic sector and complex ecosystem.Often more associated with technological advancements or manufacturing achievements,China is a fertile ground for creative minds.This new cohort is challenging
8、 outdated western-centric paradigms in arts and culture.A group of rising stars in the field,each is accompanied by a comprehensive introduction and a keen observation of their marketing and business practices.This report is not exhaustive but rather a selection of the most notable names that have b
9、een transforming the landscape since 2015.Taking the publication Fashion China published in 2015 by Thames&Hudson as its starting point,this report picks up where that left off.In that year,there was a noticeable influx of new brands created in China-an impressive eight from our list alone were foun
10、ded then.Some of these names will be known already to the trade,some wont.It includes companies launched nearly a decade ago alongside brand new names launched during or following the outbreak of the pandemic categorised here as The New Wave.Altogether,their collective design education,backgrounds a
11、nd experiences have helped to nurture a new generation of creatives born from Chinese heritage but with global design sensibilities.Our journey has been invaluable as we closely monitor the growth of these brands,listening to the captivating behind-the-scenes stories of these talented and diligent d
12、esigners.We deeply appreciate their commitment to their Chinese heritage and cultural roots while staying attuned to wider global design trends and inspirations.Enjoy.HELLO!+SCAN TO TRANSPORT INTO OUR 3D SHOWROOM POWERED BY ONEWAYXSCAN HERE INTRODUCTION TO CHINESE DESIGNERSA changing society as well
13、 as economic factors have meant that,in less than a decade,there has been a slow and steady rise in the acceptance of independent designer brands in China.Much of the industrys early groundwork was cemented by designers from Zhang Da,Uma Wang and Haizhen Wang to Ms Min,Masha Ma,Huishan Zhang and Xan
14、der Zhou who,in the 2010s,laid the cornerstones for the creation of the contemporary Chinese fashion system.Their efforts widened the role for fashion designers and original design in contemporary China.Around the same time,the government,along with various associations and municipal organisations,e
15、specially Shanghai Fashion Week,started to acknowledge the importance of young designers as a driving force for innovation and economic growth domestically and internationally.This coincided with a change in attitudes towards fashion as an academic discipline and an increase in the number of student
16、s studying abroad.According to the Education Ministry,6.2 million Chinese left to study overseas between 2000 and 2019.In the U.K,destinations such as The University of the Arts Central Saint Martins,The London College of Fashion and the Royal College of Art are favourites while Parsons The School o
17、f Design has topped the list in the US.Offline retailers,especially Labelhood,were quick to spot the potential in the industry,followed by an explosion in buyer and select stores around the country.B2B showrooms and tradeshows managed to galvanise around the importance of propping up the sector.The
18、rise of Chinas unique e-commerce system and love of digital platforms has supercharged the countrys young designers ability to connect with fans,cultivate a following and retail their designs.Platforms such as Alibabas Tmall and JD.com as well as RED,Douyin and Billibilli have been instrumental in o
19、ffering support and new avenues of visibility alongside official sponsorships and showcases.This runs from support at global fashion weeks to local showcases,online and IRL.Traditional domestic media and publications have played their part in bolstering the system,featuring creatives and designers l
20、ike on their pages.Now,influencers,KOLs and celebrities have a major role to play in boosting the credibility of these emerging designers appearing at shows and in campaigns as a way to endorse their standing at home and abroad.Although Chinas fashion ecosystem is comparatively new,it has already sh
21、own great resilience.Despite unprecedented shocks from brand scandals to the Xinjiang cotton crisis,the outbreak of COVID-19 and closed borders,it has continued to respond and adapt.This unique scenario has allowed domestic brands a unique window into the changing demands of local consumers.The chal
22、lenges of the pandemic offered a steep but invaluable learning curve for the many designers that were stranded or had relocated back to China.Few emerging brands have shied away from discussing the pandemic in their designs and they had little choice but to double down on the home market.In turn,the
23、 growing guochao or China pride trend resulted in several consumers looking more readily to local names.According to a research report on Chinas New Domestic Goods Consumption Behavior Monitoring and Development Trend from 2023 to 2024 by iiMedia Research,over 50 percent of consumers are showing con
24、fidence in the future growth of domestic brands.The designers here continue to benefit from a spike in interest for unusual,niche brands and a marginal shift away from big established names.By drawing on their cultural heritage and unique experiences that avoid cliches and tropes,and blending this w
25、ith global trends and insights,they are capitalising on this frenzy of interest in homegrown products.INTRODUCTION 007006 INTRODUCTIONNEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT NEXT THE NEXT CHAPTER
26、According to a research study by GuanYanTianXia,a research institution in China,the market size of Chinese designer brands reached around RMB 60 billion in 2022 and was expected to progress toward RMB 70 billion in 2023,with an estimated YoY growth rate of 10.7 percent.This next chapter expects bran
27、ds to cement their reputations with designs funnelled through a cross-cultural approach that is entirely new and which appeals to the changing tastes of younger shoppers,particularly millennials and Gen Z,which value uniqueness and individuality.Tastes are becoming more sophisticated and the design
28、ethos of this group offers products that reflect personal style and identity rather than overt logos.Collaborations are key to this strategy,and they too have evolved over the years.Instead of collaborating merely for financial gain,now they also offer win-win opportunities to both parties.Young bra
29、nds increase their supply chains,production and knowledge,enhanced visibility and access to new audiences as well as economic benefits.They run from well-known global names including Canada Goose,Este Lauder and UGG to local names like childrenswear giant Balabala,sportswear conglomerate Li-Ning and
30、 cashmere company Erdos.As local brands build their confidence,they are realising their importance in these partnerships and are more discerning in their choice of collaborators.After all,they are offering a vital gateway to younger shoppers.As these young consumers increasingly seek to express thei
31、r identity through fashion,the advent of digital formats offers new opportunities for self-expression.From basic social networks to fully developed virtual worlds like the metaverse,individuals can showcase their unique style in ways that were previously impossible.A recent report by Morgan Stanley
32、predicts that the fashion and luxury industries will see an additional$50 billion in revenue by 2030 from virtual products and services.Chinas advanced digital infrastructure and continued promotion of the metaverse places the adoption of virtual fashion on a strong footing for the coming decade.Fin
33、ally,as awareness of environmental and social issues increases,the expectations for sustainability and ethical design policies as standard are growing in importance from brands and consumers alike in China.On the social media platform RED,there are over 100 million views of keywords like sustainable
34、 design and sustainable fashion,indicating a strong desire to promote a fashion philosophy that minimises waste.This is resulting in a quietly green movement in China meaning that many brands have ethical practices in place but are not overly vocal in promoting them.Designers in China have a big cir
35、cular opportunity.We hope they can continue to devise and implement green technologies and practices which work towards creating a greener,more holistic fashion industry.The market demand and commercial value of Chinese designer brands is nowhere near that of established luxury giants.But the growin
36、g momentum of Guochao alongside favourable government policies will help to spotlight the distinctive,bold designs of Chinas next in fashion.INTRODUCTION 009008 INTRODUCTIONThe PioneersTHE PIONEERS 011WEBSITE FENGCHENWANG.COMWECHAT FENG CHEN WANGWEIBO FENG CHEN WANG STUDIODOUYIN FENG CHEN WANGINSTAG
37、RAM FENGCHENWANGTMAL FENGCHENWANG 旗舰店Feng Chen Wang started life as a menswear label in 2016.Fujian-born founder Wang Fengchen was one of the first women designers in China to focus on the category.Since then,its expanded its inclusive line to offer post-gender designs.The brand has been based betwe
38、en London and Shanghai since Wang graduated in menswear from the Royal College of Art in 2015.A future-modernist approach combined with a passion for analysing Wangs heritage and local traditions has ensured the brands appeal to Chinas fashion conscious consumers especially the younger generations a
39、s well as an international fanbase through collaborations and technical sportswear.Feng Chen Wang is positioned as a global brand and has shown at fashion week events around the world from New York to London,Paris to Shanghai.Collaborations have included team-ups with Levis,UGG and Converse.A recent
40、 move into beauty was seen when Este Lauder tapped the line for a collaboration during Shanghais Autumn 23 schedule.It closed Paris Spring 24 Mens with a collection produced for sportswear giant Nike.FENG CHEN WANG 012 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 013Feng Chen Wang has effectively used the collaboration
41、 model as one of the cornerstones of its business.April 2023s collab with Este Lauder on a limited-edition collection of make-up,the hashtag#Este Lauder x fengchenwang#received over 22 million views and a high discussion rate of over 1 million on Weibo.Incorporating motifs like bamboo,phoenixes and
42、Chinese landscapes into the design of the cosmetics products,the release was an homage to her Fujian heritage and deeply connected with young Chinese consumers.014 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 015In recent years,more and more luxury brands are teaming up with sportswear giants to create unique,co-brande
43、d items.Feng Chen Wangs first-ever collaboration with Nike in September 2023 was a smart way for high-end designers like Feng Chen Wang to connect with a wider crowd not just the fashion-forward folks.In an interview with Vogue Business,Feng Chen Wang said:“I see myself as a creative director or in
44、an artistic role.Im not just a fashion designer,and this felt like a natural step to embrace the unlimited opportunities offered by design.”The latest partnership is the limited edition Crocs x Feng Chen Wang collaboration,which showcases the designers unique style.The hashtag#Crocs x FengChenWang#h
45、as already generated nearly 20,000 views on RED a lifestyle sharing platform in China with 260 million monthly active users;70 percent of users are born in the 1990s.During Spring 24s Paris Fashion Week,Taiwanese singer and actress Amber Kuo received attention with her outfits,which featured the col
46、laboration shoes.016 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 017WEBSITE CHEN-PENG.COMWECHAT CHENPENG OFFICIALWEIBO CHENPENGSTUDIORED CHENPENGINSTAGRAM CHENPENGSTUDIOSince 2015,Chenpeng has revolutionised fashions relationship with the humble puffer jacket.It was first scouted by Vogue Italias Sara Maino at a trade
47、 show during Shanghai Fashion Week and since then has built up a solid global visibility and fan base for statement designs and collections that play with shape and scale in vibrant colours and quirky silhouettes.London College of Fashion graduate Peng Chen helms the design of the brand.Domestically
48、 it has partnered with local kidswear conglomerate Balabala as well as sportswear giants Anta and Li-Ning.It was also chosen to dress the home team at the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics.The brand has experienced a steady global rise over the years which culminated with a nomination as an LVMH Prize fi
49、nalist in 2022.It debuted on the Paris Fashion Week schedule in 2023 with a couture-inspired collection of down evening wear looks named after iconic figures such as Mulan.The show closed with an impossibly large white wedding dress.For Autumn 2023,it drops a capsule puffer collection with MM6 Maiso
50、n Margiela which will retail globally in Q4.CHENPENG 018 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 019Having a global celebrity wear your garment is a surefire way to amplify your brand.At 2023s Met Gala in New York,Chenpeng managed to do just that when rapper Cardi B donned a black ball gown featuring an oversized
51、camellia-adorned skirt and a studded corset at the event.This exposure earned over 2 million views on Weibo,and the highly discussed hashtag#Cardi B shows up at Met Gala with a Chinese design#received significant engagement.This was not the first time that internationally renowned celebrities have w
52、orn Chenpeng;Rihanna,Lady Gaga,Pink and Nicki Minaj are already fans.020 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 021In addition to celebrity exposure,Peng has found his own unique way of marketing on RED.His content is particularly strong in its down-to-earth,sincere,and humorous approach to audience engagement.As
53、 the brands artistic director,he usually talks about his feelings,experiences and inspiration online while preparing for a new collection or fashion show.His creativity,light-hearted humour and honesty has earned him a loyal following of fans.These connections have led him to organise several offlin
54、e gatherings and form a close-knit community.022 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 023WEBSITE SHUSHUTONGSTUDIO.COMWECHAT SHUSHUTONGSTUDIOWEIBO SHUSHUTONGSTUDIORED SHUSHU/TONGINSTAGRAM SHUSHU_TONGLei Liushu and Jiang Yutong are the brains behind beloved Shanghai-based brand Shushu/Tong which has earned a loya
55、l following known as“SHUSHUTONG Girls.”Since 2015,the duo,who graduated from the London College of Fashion,have successfully cultivated an aesthetic based on challenging the idea of playful innocence through the subversion of stereotypically feminine tropes such as frills,bows,ruffles and pearls.Shu
56、shu/Tong recently opened a standalone flagship store in Shanghai with local retailer Labelhood making it one of the first independent designer brands to achieve such a feat.It follows a number of collaborations with companies such as Malone Souliers in 2019,Peacebird in 2021,Este Lauder in 2021 and
57、2023,and Charles and Keith in 2022.Despite maintaining a focus on the domestic market,Shushu/Tong has also attracted organic attention from around the world,securing stockists such as Dover Street Market,Browns,Selfridges and Nordstrum.SHUSHU/TONG024 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 025In July 2022,Shushu/T
58、ong successfully launched its Shanghai flagship concept store on Shanghias Nanjing West Road.The purpose behind the physical store extends beyond sales.Instead,it focuses on creating a visually impactful brand experience.Driven by the belief that an offline store should serve as a central point for
59、connecting potential customers with the brand,the interior extends the visuals from the Autumn 23 runway setting,featuring meticulously organised small rooms that reveal infinite possibilities for expansion.The romantically designed space has received over 87,000 views on RED,illustrating the demand
60、 from its customers for unique spaces.026 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 027By creating visually captivating physical stores,partnering with influential figures,and showcasing diverse fashion examples,Shushu/Tong has fostered a strong connection with its customers and built a loyal following.The brands co
61、mmitment to empowering individual expression and style has contributed to its success and the establishment of its own offline stores.Worn by Chinese celebrities such as Qiaoxin,Li Qin,Zhou Xun and Ouyang Nana,plus overseas girl groups like Blackpink and New Jeans,Shushu/Tong frequently shares diver
62、se examples of girls dressing up with the hashtag#SHUSHUTONG Girls#which has garnered nearly half a million views.028 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 029WEBSITE STAFFONLYSTUDIO.COMWECHAT STAFFONLY_STUDIOWEIBO STAFFONLY-OFFICIALRED STAFFONLYINSTAGRAM STAFFONLYSTUDIOTAOBAO STAFFONLYShimo Zhou and Yea Une are
63、 the duo behind the unisex line Staffonly.Their partnership started when they were studying MA menswear design at the London College of Fashion and MA Accessory Design at the Royal College of Arts respectively.In 2015,they launched one of Chinas most consistently diverse and vibrant lines full of dr
64、amatic concepts,quirky details and relaxed tailoring.“Its about a balance of show and commercial pieces,”Zhou has stated in the past.Outerwear is a key seller and the brand is now a firm fixture at Shanghai Fashion Week.Staffonly has picked up nominations for both the Woolmark and BoF China Prize wh
65、ile it was one of seven names selected to collaborate for Onitsuke Tigers 70th anniversary in 2019.Stockists include Lane Crawford,I.T.and Galeries Lafayette.The label has also shown its playful side when in 2021 it devised a board game inspired by the stock exchange.For Autumn 22,it launched“STAFFO
66、NLY AUCTION,”a virtual auction platform which hosted the brands collection of NFTs with creative workshop Studio Office.November 2023 saw it collaborate with CLOT,creating a collection that married CLOTs signature Alienegra motif with Staffonlys distinctive design.SHIMO ZHOU AND UNE YEA030 THE PIONE
67、ERSTHE PIONEERS 031Ever since Staffonly started,its been about more than just making clothesit wants to craft a“three-dimensional”brand.Each seasons drop serves as a social phenomenon and research project,extending the collective output of Staffonlys work,the stories they care about and the narrativ
68、e techniques they use to connect with consumers.Through this approach,the focus is shifted towards an entity or platform that allows consumers to engage with work and ideas rather than the lowkey designers themselves.ANYWHEREWORKING FROMEMOTIONSIDENTITIES032 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 033With the line
69、 between work and life becoming increasingly blurred in the post-COVID era,Staffonly has released their Spring 23 collection,Working From Anywhere,as a response to the pandemic.It explored topics such as#nomadic working#,#digital nomads#,and#work from home#,which have generated over 300,000 thousand
70、 discussions,allowing Staffonly to engage in a meaningful dialogue with its audience.034 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 035WECHAT PRONOUNCESTUDIOWEIBO PRONOUNCE_RED PRONOUNCE 502 小屋RED PRONOUNCEINSTAGRAM _PRONOUNCEPRONOUNCE is helmed by a duo:Li Yushan who is based in Milan and Zhou Jun who lives in Shang
71、hai.Founded in 2016,their complimentary aesthetics have seen their brand find a distinctive niche in the Chinese fashion industry.It has a DNA based on Chinese history and handcrafts while pushing the boundaries of gender neutrality to explore the space where Eastern and Western cultures meet.Their
72、modern wardrobe consists of immersive,vibrant prints,daring accessories and inclusive suiting and silhouettes.Their interrogation of Chinese heritage is always a dynamic focal point and they continue to rework the Mao suit and Cheongsams.Spring 2023 was inspired by vintage vinyl dolls from the duos
73、memories of the 1990s;retro doll faces are digitally printed while figurines peep out from indigo denim pockets.The following collection for Autumn 2023 was a poignant reflection on the digital age rooted in ancient traditions.Knotting notes,oracle bone and tortoise shell inscriptions were all vehic
74、les to explore how information was shared in Chinas past.It also posed the topical question,does gender really matter?PRONOUNCE was the first Chinese designer brand to be officially invited by the Italy-based Pitti Uomo to hold a fashion show.The brand has successfully collaborated with H&M,Puma and
75、 Diesel.YUSHAN LI AND JUN ZHOU036 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 037PRONOUNCE is pioneering for its ability to immerse itself into local stories and the rich tapestry of Shanghais neighbourhoods.Rather than relying on brand-centric stories,PRONOUNCE taps into the local community for its social media,keepi
76、ng content real and relevant for its audience.Early in 2023,PRONOUNCE launched a new social media handle,PRONOUNCE 502 Residence,along with a brand experience space on Julu Road in Shanghais JingAn district.This has become a trendy spot for fashion lovers,generating over 140,000 views with hashtags#
77、502 Residence#and#PRONOUNCE Space#on RED.Decked out in its signature purple,the quirky residence hosts photo and art exhibits,features co-branded merchandise and offers a handpicked collection of books across several floors.038 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 039040 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 041WEBSITE PRIV
78、ATEPOLICYNY.COMWECHAT PRIVATE POLICYWEIBO PRIVATEPOLICYNYRED PRIVATE POLICYINSTAGRAM PRIVATEPOLICYNYWith the tagline,make your own rules,Private Policy is an inclusive brand based in New York.Founded by creative directors Li Haoran and Qu Siying in 2016,its design process is inspired by the publishi
79、ng world with each season based on a particular social issue.Its pillars are based on building community,inspiring meaningful conversations,sustainability and diversity.Edgy designs have a post-gender,utilitarian aesthetic and are often produced from repurposed or recycled fabrics while collections
80、have tackled big topics like enslaved fishermen and big Pharma.The accomplished duo have won a number of accolades,including the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2019 and in 2022,it scooped the Yu Prize Creative Impact award.Currently,Qu is focused on the US and European markets while Li is based in
81、 Shanghai and concentrates on China.Private Policy shows at New York Fashion Week.PRIVATE POLICY 042 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 043Private Policys focus on social issues such as diversity and sustainability has inspired the brand to navigate the industry in a more ethical fashion.Collaborations often
82、have a mindful and conscious remit.In 2021,it partnered with the Museum of Chinese in America as well as the deaf activist Chella Man.2022 saw it collaborate with the first community garden in New York city.A collaboration with Shanghais retail store The Balancing focused on a sustainable fashion pr
83、oject which invited participants to recycle and recreate.Co-creation has become an increasingly meaningful part of the customers shopping journey as it allows them to be involved in the sustainable fashion movement and contribute to a more eco-friendly future.044 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 045Designer
84、 Li Haoran shares his design thoughts and inspiration on recycled fashion on RED which encourages more environmentally-conscious consumption and attracts a large audience.By doing so,Li is able to soft promote his brand and raise awareness on the importance of having environmentally-friendly practic
85、es.046 THE PIONEERSTHE PIONEERS 047The PioneersBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersSTAFFONLYSTAFFONLYSTUDIO.COMPRIVATE POLICYPRIVATEPOLICYNY.COMB9230CPRONOUNCE_FENG CHEN WANG STUDIOSTAFFONLY-OFFICIALCHENPENGSTUDIOSHUSHUTONGSTUDIOPRIVATEPOLICYNYSHUSHU/TONGSHUSHUTONGSTUDIO.COMCHENPENGCHEN-PENG.C
86、OMFENG CHEN WANGFENGCHENWANG.COM_PRONOUNCEChinese designer brands are redefining creativity and consumer connection.To thrive in this vibrant market,distill your vision,find your niche and engage your audience with authenticity.Risks and innovation are your allies.Need a guide in the China market?Al
87、arices China marketing strategy expertise is your first step to distinction.Emerging Chinese designer brands showcase a compelling blend of creativity,innovation,and a profound understanding of their target audience.Their strategies offer essential lessons for new designers and entrepreneurs.A seaso
88、ned writer and curator with deep insights into Chinas fashion industry,Gemma A.Williams crafts narratives that resonate.Whether its connecting with designers or analysing business trends in fashion,fragrance or the metaverse,her bespoke approach informs storytelling with culture.REVAMPING YOUR CHINA
89、 MARKETING STRATEGY?GET IN TOUCH WITH ALARICE TO HELP YOU SUCCEED.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMASCAN HERE FOR WRITING SERVICES THAT CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF FASHION,CULTURE,AND CURATION:SCAN HERE TO COLLABORATE WITH GEMMA.048 THE PIONEERSThe ArtisansTHE ARTISANS 051WEBSITE XUZHI.CO.UKWECHAT XU
90、 ZHI 序之WEIBO XU_ZHI_RED XU ZHIINSTAGRAM XU_ZHI_TMALL XUZHI 旗舰店Central Saint Martins alumnus Xuzhi Chen established his womenswear brand in 2015.Its bold approach to design is grounded in a chic yet experimental manipulation of fabrics and technicality,earning him the moniker“master of materials.”As
91、the young brand rose to prominence,Xu Zhi competed for some of fashions most prestigious titles.It was a semifinalist for the H&M Design Award,nominated for the LVMH Prize and International Woolmark Prize in 2016 and had spots in the 2017 Forbes 30 Under 30 list and 2018s BoF 500.In 2019,the brand m
92、oved into menswear and started to double down on the local market.It collaborated with domestic lingerie disruptor Neiwei helmed by Liu Xiaolu.Other partners included Erdos in 2020,leather goods brand Strathberry in 2021 and Li Jiaqi Chinas top beauty influencer.In 2023,it launched Xu Zhi Denim.The
93、same year,its deep appreciation for craftsmanship and deconstruction earned it a spot on luxury retailer Mytheresas inaugural China Designer Programme.Xu Zhi produced a capsule showcasing his signature hand-woven embroidery and adornments which was exhibited during Autumn 24s Shanghai Fashion Week.X
94、U ZHI 052 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 053In April 2023,Mytheresas initiative garnered significant attention from fashion enthusiasts.The accompanying RED hashtag#Mytheresa Chinese designer special features#attracting an impressive 750,000 views.For Chinese designer brands like Xu Zhi,collaborations wit
95、h influential global entities offer a unique opportunity to expand their sales channels internationally and reach a broader audience.However,given the niche popularity of these young brands,the halo-effect they generate for companies domestically shouldnt be overlooked.The partnership was a win for
96、Mytheresa who promoted innovative Chinese design while increasing its market presence in China.054 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 055056 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 057WECHAT SHUTING QIUWEIBO SHUTINGQIUOFFICIALRED SHUTING QIUDOUYIN SHUTING QIU OFFICIALINSTAGRAM SHUTINGQIUShortly after graduating from a BA an
97、d MA in Fashion from the Royal Academy in Antwerp,Hangzhou-born Shuting Qiu founded her namesake brand in 2018.It uses an eye-catching colour palette,asymmetry and experimental silhouettes to create collections of richly contrasting silk jacquards,intricate embroideries,and print juxtapositions.Curr
98、ently based in Shanghai,Qiu finds inspiration in art,literature,cinema and travel with her designs paying homage to the romantic and neurotic spirits of heroines such as Virginia Woolf and Pina Bausch.Shuting Qiu has won VFiles Runway 10 and the Special Prize at the BIG Design Award Japan,as well as
99、 a finalist for the BoF China Prize and the H&M Design Award.It has been invited by Vogue Talents to join the World of Vogue Talents.A fixture on the Milan Fashion Week schedule,Shuting Qui also shows at Shanghai Fashion Week.The label is committed to ethical production.Collections are constructed f
100、rom recyclable materials made from old plastic bottles and upcycled fabrics otherwise headed to landfill.It has also used old stock to create garments.SHUTING QIUSHUTING QIU058 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 059As the fashion industry faces increasing pressure to become more sustainable,Qiu is stepping up
101、 to the challenge.For the Autumn 23 season,Shuting Qiu utilised 60 percent sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics as well as leftover fabrics from previous seasons.Sequins and yarn used in embroidery were recycled from India and a large amount of eco-friendly fur was carefully placed throughout the co
102、llection.Overall,the fashion industry is taking steps to reduce its environmental impact.By incorporating sustainable materials and production processes,designers like Qiu are taking small steps toward a more eco-friendly and responsible future.060 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 061Shuting Qui has a numbe
103、r of quirky collaborations under its belt from Adidas to Ugg.A recent collaboration between Shuting Qiu and Triumph saw it give the classic underwear a dynamic makeover.To offer customers a more engaging experience,Triumph and Shuting Qiu co-hosted their first salon event at the Yongshe Studio in Sh
104、anghai.The event drew fashion media,bloggers and consumers,while Qiu was present to share her inspiration and the stories behind the collaboration.The event also included a fashion styling workshop led by an InStyle celebrity stylist.Overall,the collection is a great example of how womens underwear
105、brands are evolving to meet the changing needs and desires of modern women by partnering with young,women designers.062 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 063WEIBO CAROLINEHUOFFICIALRED CAROLINE HUINSTAGRAM CAROLINEQIQIFounded in 2018,the womenswear brand Caroline Hu uses fabric to express the moments that ha
106、ve touched the designers life.Hu studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons School of Design where she honed her romantic style which is based on advanced customization and craftsmanship.Artistic creativity and intense appliques produces collections that capture a signature style that explores oth
107、erworldly femininity in painterly strokes.Caroline Hu was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2019,the same year she won the inaugural BoF China Prize.The brand has been featured in countless publications and worn by stars such as Michelle Yeoh and Alexa Chung.In 2021,the Shanghai-based label collabor
108、ated with Valentino in a dialogue initiated by Vogue and had a look acquired by the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts permanent collection in 2022.Following shows at New York and London,she relocated to Paris to show during fashion week.Hus visionary brand is stocked in Beams(Toky
109、o)SKP(Chengdu),Farfetch and Dover Street Market(Beijing).In July 2023,it announced a collaboration with Chinas Urban Revivo.CAROLINE HUCAROLINE HU064 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 065The question of how to balance business and aesthetic pursuits is critical in a brands development.Maintaining an intricat
110、e footing between art and business can be a long-term strategy and Caroline Hu is an example of this dialogue.066 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 067The brands customer base has expanded over the last two seasons due to the appeal of its partnerships.From a business perspective,a recent collaboration with
111、Chinese brand Urban Revivo(UR)was a strong if unexpected commercial move.The collection was pre-sold at URs physical store and displayed in Shanghai,Chengdu and Shenzhen.While the brand still upholds its core romantic and artistic differentiators,it aims to inject its more commercial pieces and dail
112、y wear items into its lines based on authentic feedback from customers and retailers.068 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 069WEBSITE SUSANFANGOFFICIAL.COMWECHAT SUSANFANGOFFICIALWEIBO SUSANFANGOFFICIALRED SUSAN FANGDOUYIN SUSAN FANGINSTAGRAM SUSANFANGOFFICIALA relative newcomer by global standards,Susan Fan
113、g has exploded onto the scene since founding her namesake line in 2017.Designer Fang sees fashion as“a medium for self-expression and a celebration of our inner selves,”that can highlight the diverse tapestry of humanity and bring people together.Conceptual yet highly accessible,designs are cultural
114、ly rich and rooted in sustainability,practicality and textile innovation.By employing techniques such as air-weaving and sustainability producing accessories,it aims to reduce waste while creating designs that promote body positivity.A graduate from Central Saint Martins,Susan Fang is a regular at L
115、ondon Fashion Week and has managed to earn a global reputation through international stockists.October 2023 saw it launch its first fine art exhibition in Shanghais YiCang Museum as well as continuing its partnership with Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts during Shanghai Fashion Week.SUSAN FANG070 THE A
116、RTISANSTHE ARTISANS 071Again,this is another brand effectively galvanising the power of collaborations to supercharge its visibility.Since its team-up with Zara,Susan Fang has continued to expand her brand through various partnerships:Instax Fujifilm,Swarovski;P&G focused on sustainability and respo
117、nsible beauty.In March 2023,it released a co-branded shoe design with Ugg debuted in Fangs Autumn 23 collection as vibrant and whimsical platforms.Online,Fangs charming personality shone through when she hoped that every girl who wears this“lucky slipper”will have all their wishes come true;the camp
118、aign with Ugg has over 55,000 views on RED.072 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 073Fangs whimsical designs in combination with her determination have resulted in the dressing of various actors,singers as well as costumes for performances.In May 2023,the brand created one of Hua Chenyus performance looks for
119、 his concert in Wuhan it received over 7,000 engagements on Weibo.It teamed up with the singer Asi for the Strawberry Music Festival 2023 and with Zhang Shaohan on her world tour.These collaborations showcased her versatility and prowess in world-building.074 THE ARTISANSTHE ARTISANS 075The Artisans
120、Big Thanks to These Contributing DesignersSHUTING QIUSUSAN FANGCAROLINEHUOFFICIALSHUTINGQIUOFFICIALXU_ZHI_SUSANFANGOFFICIALCAROLINE HUXU ZHIXUZHI.CO.UKSUSANFANGOFFICIAL.COMCAROLINEQIQISHUTINGQIURemember,understanding the market is the first step in creating a successful brand strategy.Alarices China
121、 consumer research can provide you with the insights you need.The fashion industry is more dynamic than ever with sustainability taking centre stage,designers exploring new avenues for expression,and brand collaborations becoming a strategic move for market expansion.To navigate these changes,you ne
122、ed deep insights that only comprehensive consumer research can provide.Gemma A.Williams is your insider to the evolving world of Chinese fashion.With a finger on the pulse of emerging trends and a deep understanding of cultural nuances,her writing bridges the gap between East and West.NEED HELP WITH
123、 YOUR CHINA CONSUMER RESEARCH?ALARICE CAN HELP.SCAN HERE TO TALK TO US.SCAN HERE READY TO EXPLORE THE FUTURE OF FASHION WITH GEMMA.CONNECT WITH GEMMA FOR INSIGHTFUL FASHION ANALYSIS.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA076 THE ARTISANSHomegrown HeroesHOMEGROWN HEROES 079WEBSITE MINGMASTUDIO.COMWECH
124、AT MINGMASTOREWEIBO MINGMASTUDIORED MING MAINSTAGRAM MINGMA_OFFICIALTAOBAO MING MABased in Shanghai,Ming Ma was established in 2018 after its namesake founder gave up a finance degree to study at Central Saint Martins under the tutelage of the late Professor Louise Wilson.There,he says he worked wit
125、h his instincts and taught himself how to make things.His dream paid off and the brand has quickly become synonymous with sculptural silhouettes,striking colours and elegant yet easy pieces.Its also a vehicle for Mas 3D-cutting and draping techniques,evoking a unique design language that balances th
126、e past and the future.Ma is inspired by culture and has cited obscure designers,artists and films as his references.Placed in Forbes 2019 30 under 30 list,Ma retails his signature contemporary label at some of the worlds leading retailers,including Galeries Lafayette,Net-A-porter,and I.T,as well as
127、locally through Labelhood and Looknow.Lane Crawford picked up its first collection.Collaboration is an important part of the brand and its partnered with a diverse range of companies from Peacebird to Mercedes-Benz and Tencel to Ultrasuede.MING MA080 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 081082 HOMEGROWN
128、 HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 083While many up-and-coming Chinese designer brands have relied on celebrity endorsements to increase their brand visibility,Ming Ma has taken a more innovative approach to engaging with its fanbase:local consumers.The brand has invited active brand enthusiasts to try on thei
129、r new collections and encourage their fans to share their experiences on social media.By co-creating visual assets with KOLs and KOCs,Ming Ma has successfully struck a balance between sophistication and relatability.This approach has not only increased the brands sales conversion rate but has also h
130、elped to establish a deeper connection with its audience.084 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 085WEBSITE SHORTSENTENCE.COMWECHAT SHORTSENTENCEWEIBO SHORT_SENTENCERED SHORT SENTENCEDOUYIN SHORT SENTENCEINSTAGRAM SHORT_SENTENCE_OFFICIALTMALL SHORT SENTENCE 旗舰店Lin Guan studied at Shanghais Donghua Univ
131、ersity and Parsons School of Design.After graduating,she worked for the menswear department of Calvin Klein in New York and became the head designer for the established Chinese brand iii ViViNiKO.In 2015,Guan founded Short Sentence with the tagline“every day.any day.all year round”and is grounded in
132、 the ethos of creating quality timeless essentials with playful design details.Short Sentence products are mostly manufactured in Shanghai and Jiangsu,where it has built long-term relationships with quality suppliers.The brand already has a number of collaborations under its belt such as The Beast s
133、tore(in 2017),H.N.LiN Design Center and UGG(both in 2020).More recently,it has been focused on building up its own solid retail base and now has four standalone stores including a newly opened store in Chengdu.Its popularity is undeniable and its sold at over 100 top boutiques across China,including
134、 Lane Crawford,Assemble by Reel and The Balancing.SHORT SENTENCE086 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 087Rather than communicating a static brand story,Short Sentences social output expresses its attitude towards fashion and life by drawing inspiration from the neighbourhood,literature and everyday m
135、oments.088 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 089In June 2023,Short Sentence launched its physical store in Chengdu to engage its brand fans in co-creating social media content,delivering the message Short Sentence is every day in a vivid and refreshing way.Discussion topic#find the Short Sentence str
136、ipes#have attracted over 14,000 viewers on RED.The offline check-in activities,gift-winning mechanisms and content co-creation have all proven effective in increasing brand exposure online.090 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 0918ON8 was launched in 2017 after Li Gong graduated from Londons prestigi
137、ous Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate programme.The brands debut show in Shanghai that October was a kaleidoscopic riot of references which Li calls“retro futurism”.Since then,it has cultivated a design DNA based on contemporary sportswear and mens tailoring executed through fresh pattern cu
138、tting and tempered proportions combined with a mix of technical and traditional fabrics.In 2021,8ON8 launched a sportsline which drops annually in July and finds inspiration in vintage fitness culture.From Shanghais Changning district,Li who originally hails from Ningbo has turned his label into an
139、award-winning,commercial success.With around 70 stockists and outings at various international fashion weeks,it had a turnover of over 30 million RMB in 2022.A sound investment,apparel conglomerate Peacebird invested an undisclosed sum in 8ON8(Li has stated this was more about“gaining business know-
140、how rather than money”).Canali,Asics,Puma,Kappa,Nio and Asics are just some of the companies 8ON8 has collaborated with.8ON8 092 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 093WECHAT GROUP8ON8WEIBO 8ON8_OFFICIALRED 8ON8INSTAGRAM 8ON8TMALL FLAGSHIP STORE 8ON8 旗舰店Most emerging Chinese designer brands collaborate
141、 with established brands to extend their reach and enhance brand recognition in this highly competitive market.Peacebird is one of many fixtures in 8ON8s long repertoire of collaborators.This partnership has gained significant momentum in helping it to galvanise new audiences especially as the well-
142、established Chinese apparel giant shifts its focus towards a more dynamic,youthful identity.The#Peacebird x 8ON8 collaboration series#generated over 2 million views on Weibo,boosting 8ON8s visibility with its colourful designs and imaginative brand identity.094 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 095Th
143、e pandemic accelerated the integration of physical and digital experiences into your brand offerings and created a demand for“phygital”experiences.8ON8 has explored new formats like the Metaverse and NFTs in an effort to cultivate a mature youth culture,leveraging these digital mediums to connect wi
144、th the audience in innovative ways.It chose Vogue Meta-Ocean to release its Autumn 23 collection.In this imaginative,digital space,8ON8 presented its retro-futurism from a macroscopic and multidimensional perspective.096 HOMEGROWN HEROESHOMEGROWN HEROES 097 Homegrown HeroesBig Thanks to These Contri
145、buting DesignersSHORT SENTENCESHORT_SENTENCE MINGMASTUDIO8ON8MING MA8ON8_OFFICIALMINGMASTUDIO.COM8ON8SHORTSENTENCE.COMAlarices China marketing strategy service can guide you through these changes and help you make the most of the opportunities they present.Stay ahead in the fast-paced fashion indust
146、ry with Alarices China marketing strategy service,guiding you through every step of your brands evolution.The fashion landscape is rapidly changing,and brands need robust marketing strategies to stay ahead.Tap into the essence of Chinas fashion scene with Gemma A.Williams,a curator and writer whose
147、expertise is second to none.With a well-honed eye for the next big trend and a deep understanding of cultural undercurrents,Gemma provides invaluable insights that can transform your brands approach to one of the worlds most dynamic markets.REVAMPING YOUR CHINA MARKETING STRATEGY?GET IN TOUCH WITH A
148、LARICE TO HELP YOU SUCCEED.SCAN HERE HARNESS THE POWER OF EXPERTISE FOR YOUR BRAND.SCAN HERE TO GAIN UNPARALLELED INDUSTRY INSIGHTS FROM GEMMA.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA098 HOMEGROWN HEROESThe IntellectualsTHE INTELLECTUALS 101WEBSITE OUDE-WAAG.COMWECHAT OUDE WAAGWEIBO OUDE-WAAGRED OUDE
149、WAAGINSTAGRAM OUDEWAAGYin Jingwei,who studied at Londons Royal College of Art,founded Oude Waag in 2018.Instead of putting his own name on the label,he called it after a street in Antwerp,Belgium;in this way he positions Oude Waag as an aesthetic study in a journal-style approach to contradictions.T
150、he designer considers fashion from an intellectual perspective,appreciating overlooked sources of beauty and elevating them through sharp cutting,fluid draping and textile innovation.In March,the Chengdu-born Shanghai-based Yin told Vogue Business,“I like to play with paradoxes.This tension always a
151、ttracts me.”This conceit results in garments that explore the symbiotic relationship between the body and the garment,and collections built from fluid structures,abstract prints,unexpected fabrics juxtapositions and menswear tailoring techniques.In July 2023,Chengdu-born Yin who is based in Shanghai
152、,was nominated for the Vogue China Fashion Fund 2023 award.OUDE WAAG102 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 103So far,Oude Waag has been focused primarily on cementing profitability in the local market.It has over 40 stockists domestically.Thanks to its distinctive style,it notched up sales of more t
153、han a million euros in 2022 a 20 percent increase on the year before.104 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 105In its essence,Oude Waag explores the intimate connection between clothing and the human body through philosophical contemplation but still stays relevant by drawing inspiration from curren
154、t and hotly debated topics.Spring 24 collection is a case in point:it drew inspiration from the remarkable Japanese freedivers known as Ama.These women form a community that collects abalone and pearls,showcasing the independence and fortitude of the female spirit.The garments combined the tradition
155、s of Ama with a modern,high-fashion take to portray a unique and powerful version of women-power.This is supplemented with some diehard fans on social platforms like RED who continuously support the brand.106 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 107WEBSITE SAMUELGUIYANG.COMWECHAT SAMUELGUIYANGWEIBO SA
156、MUELGUIYANGRED SAMUELGUIYANG OFFICIALINSTAGRAM SAMUELGUIYANGSAMUEL GUI YANG is a London based design studio established by Samuel Yang in 2015 which includes Erik Litzn as partner and creative director.This blend of Chinese and Swedish cultures and aesthetics presents a new departure for the global
157、fashion market.The brand is simultaneously rooted in history and yet contemporary,creating a refreshingly challenging design language.Yang,who hails from Shenzhen and is now based between London and Shanghai,has told the media that over time,“the pieces that resonate with our Chinese customers have
158、codes of both East and West.”It does this as sustainably as possible by producing two main collections a year in China and London from location-specific fabrics and by using variations of similar patterns and silhouettes.Showing a meticulous focus on construction and fabrication,SAMUEL GUI YANG crea
159、tes pragmatic garments and lifetime pieces.Being part of a wave of new Chinese designers it has taken on the challenge of“creating for a new generation of Chinese”and aims to offer a vision whereby Chinese history and culture stand for“more than just exotic notions or traditional costumes”.The low-k
160、ey label was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2020 and is stocked by Labelhood,Farfetch and Lane Crawford.SAMUEL GUI YANGSAMUEL GUI YANG108 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 109In December 2023,a search for New Chinese Style outfits on RED yielded 1.87 million related posts.The trend is driven by
161、the increasing recognition and appreciation of traditional culture among young people.SAMUEL GUI YANG is at the very heart of this renewed interest in traditional Chinese culture and one of the brands flourishing from this craze.110 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 111In March and April 2023,it ho
162、sted a cocktail party and photo exhibition in Shanghai showcasing various portraits of individuals in Yangs circle known as the SGY community.The images on display captured the authentic,everyday moments of this group.By doing so,the duo seeks to foster a fashion cohort that includes musicians,fashi
163、on insiders,artists,and others.This approach contributes to a more inclusive and evolving brand appeal,attracting a wider range of brand enthusiasts.112 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 113WEBSITE XIMONLEE.COMWECHAT XIMONLEERED XIMONLEE_OFFICIALWEIBO XIMONLEE_OFFICIALINSTAGRAM XIMONLEEXimon Lee is
164、 a Chinese-born Korean designer currently based in Berlin.He burst onto the scene in 2015,graduating from Parsons School of Design where he secured the Best Menswear Designer Award and set up his eponymous brand.That same year,Lee was the first menswear designer to win the H&M Design Award as well a
165、s be shortlisted as an LVMH Prize finalist.2016 saw him selected as one of Forbes 30 Under 30.The brands meticulous and boundary-pushing conceptual work explores ideologies exploring identity,society and gender amasses a dedicated and loyal following.Lees very singular vision is presented in memorab
166、le and off-kilter presentations and executed in thoughtfully treated garments,well-studied silhouettes and the innovative development of fabrics.The cutting-edge,fashion forward collections have garnered international appraisal and a growing list of stockists.In 2020,the brand collaborated with Reeb
167、ok for a conceptual take on the DMX Trail Shadow and Zig Kinetica footwear.Lee has shown in Paris and Berlin while continuing to show at Shanghai Fashion Week.XIMON LEE XIMON LEE114 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 115The brand effectively utilises the power of community,frequently announcing coll
168、aborations with popular Chinese celebrities on a monthly basis.Some notable collaborations include performer Jackson Wang,actor Ma Boqian,and Vanida a talented female rapper.In May 2023,a post featuring the female artist Lisi Danni wearing a runway look from Spring 23 went viral,driving nearly 4,000
169、 engagements.In the comments,many of Lis fans expressed excitement for the collaboration and left positive remarks.Posts like this have contributed to creating a positive buzz around Ximon Lee.The brand has an official e-shop and launched an official WeChat mini-program in November 2021.Each product
170、 launch is officially announced on social media channels while active official media channels respond to fans questions under the posts such as the release date of new styles and purchasing channels.These interactions further help to foster a closer relationship and loyalty.THE INTELLECTUALS 117116
171、THE INTELLECTUALSXimon Lee has a steadfast fashion philosophy of following his own style rather than conforming to the trends of the era.He believes that nowadays,fashion seems to be about exploring how to fit into current trends.Traditionally,fashion reflects a societys mindset,politics,or historic
172、al context,and Ximon sees his fashion style as reminiscent of the 90s,reflecting his view of the world today.He explains that everyone expects to be recognized and understood by more people in this era,but being too ordinary can limit ones potential.He finds more excitement and mystery in creating s
173、omething that is not so trendy,rather than seeking widespread public recognition.The development of the internet,technology,and other factors in the current era has created a growing distance between people.Ximon Lee believes that fashion can play a vital role in bridging these gaps and bringing peo
174、ple from different cultures,regions,and backgrounds together to create a more inclusive and diverse society.118 THE INTELLECTUALSTHE INTELLECTUALS 119The IntellectualsBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersSAMUEL GUI YANGSAMUELGUIYANGOUDE-WAAGXIMONLEE_OFFICIALXIMON LEEOUDE WAAG OUDE-WAAG.COMXIMON
175、LEE.COMSAMUELGUIYANG.COMAlarices China Consumer Research equips brands to understand and cater to the sophisticated aesthetic preferences of their audience.Stay relevant and connected with your audience with Alarices China consumer research.In the multifaceted landscape of Chinese fashion,grasping c
176、onsumer behaviour is crucial.Unravel the complexities of Chinas luxury market through Gemma A.Williamss sharp analysis and curation.Her expertise lights the way for brands seeking to understand and excel in this lucrative space.INTERESTED IN LEARNING FROM CHINA FOR YOUR GLOBAL OPERATIONS?ALARICE CAN
177、 HELP.SCAN HERE WANT TO ENHANCE YOUR BRAND WITH GEMMAS STRATEGIC INSIGHT?SCAN HERE FOR EXPERT GUIDANCE IN LUXURY FASHION.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA120 THE INTELLECTUALSTextile InnovatorsTEXTILE INNOVATORS 123WECHAT NAN KNITSWEIBO NANKNITSRED NAN KNITSINSTAGRAM NAN_KNITS_OFFICIALNan Knits
178、 is a contemporary knitwear brand founded in 2021 by designer Hu Nan.Hus futuristic and surrealist designs are inspired by numerous pop culture depictions of people from across time and space.He draws influences from French posters from the 1970s advertising cross-galaxy vacations,Japanese girls com
179、ics from the 1980s and video games.In addition,his designs also incorporate elements from the trends popular in Asian subcultures during his youth.The founder has an MA from the Royal College of Art and was a visiting lecturer at the China Academy of Art.He gained experience at London labels Mark Fa
180、st and Sibling.The brand has flourished since the lockdowns by offering a unique knitting aesthetic which produces flamboyant,personalised,fun garments.It foregrounds innovative knitting techniques,creative material combinations,bold and contrasting colours,and modern Y2K silhouettes.The brand is co
181、mmitted to sustainability and uses one-piece crafting methods to minimise material waste.It won the Green Star award from WWD China in 2023.NAN KNITSNAN KNITS124 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 125Nan Knits is focused on a sustainable business model with the aim of achieving zero waste in desig
182、n and production.This commitment to achieving environmental consciousness saw it implement a single-piece moulding technique which bears similarities to 3D printing,meaning that it can minimise material waste during manufacturing.This ensures that only the necessary materials are used,significantly
183、reducing any environmental impact.A supply chain situated in Dongguan also means the brand can maintain control over the entire garment production process from design and sampling to final production.Repetitive manual labour costs and potential errors are also reduced by the use of advanced computer
184、 programming which in turn,leads to improved overall operational efficiency.126 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 127128 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 129RED SWAYING KNITINSTAGRAM SWAYING_KNITTAOBAO SWAYING KNITShasha Wong obtained a masters degree in Womenswear Knitwear from the Royal Col
185、lege of Art in 2017 which followed a bachelors degree in Fashion Textile from the University of the Arts.Both her graduation collections received acclaim from Vogue Italias Vogue Talents.Shortly after,Wong founded Swaying/knit which is based on the designers textile design background,a respect for t
186、actile impressions and the pursuit of expression through details.Like its contemporaries,Swaying/knit is invested in exploring ways to break down the stereotypes surrounding knitwear and create a new fashion language.The word swaying refers not only to the motion of a working knitter and the movemen
187、t of knitting machine but also the feeling of comfort and enjoyment evoked while knitting.With a focus on delicate details and innovative techniques,Wong brings a sense of sophisticated cool to traditional knitwear,creating elevated styles fit for any modern wardrobe.The label shows at Shanghai Fash
188、ion Week and debuted at Puyuan Fashion Week a new event focused on knitwear and is priming to expand to Paris Fashion Week in the coming seasons.SWAYING/KNIT130 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 131Wong has introduced cooling yarn that results in finer and more translucent garments.Although it re
189、quires increased production time and costs,this innovative approach aims to alter the perception of knitwear and make it more suitable for warmer weather.132 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 133Another strategic decision to alter the misconceptions surrounding the application of textile material
190、 came when it collaborated with Chinese lingerie and loungewear brand Neiwai.Unexpected,yet both value materials and craftsmanship.The products aimed to bring high-quality,durable clothing for consumers and show knitwear in more unusual settings such as the gym.Their collaboration series was availab
191、le in limited quantities at Neiwais selected offline stores,official Tmall flagship store and its WeChat mini-program online store.134 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 135WEBSITE OSMOSTHEBRAND.NETWEIBO OSMOSTHEBRANDRED OSMOSINSTAGRAM OSMOSTHEBRANDChinese Burmese designer Steven Oo showed his gra
192、duate collection in New York in 2010;he founded Osmos in Shanghai to investigate craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics by exploration in yarns,textures and shapes.Its based on super fine gauges and technical knit built on a stable supply chain and is the culmination of over a decade in the R&D o
193、f technical knitwear and design.The brand adheres to a detailed sustainability manifesto(published online).This includes the uses of recycled cashmere,recycled polyester and cotton sourced under the Better Cotton Initiative(BCI)to reduce the footprint of production,and the creation of lightweight kn
194、its via the Recycle to Upcycle initiative.Partnered factories have gained Certifications from Oeko-Tex Standard 100.It also advocates for the timelessness of garments by offering free repairs.Osmos shows at Shanghai Fashion Week and in a short space of time,has secured numerous stockists all over Ch
195、ina.Future plans include branching into homeware textiles.OSMOSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 137136 TEXTILE INNOVATORSOsmos is one of the only knitwear brands to tune into the phenomenon of livestreaming in China.In April 2023,it partnered with a famous Chinese actress Dong Jie.Dong is known for her refined li
196、vestreams that aim to educate viewers about luxury,interesting local brands and trends.The sophisticated low key atmosphere of her sessions offer a stark difference from the fast-paced,hard sell style of say,prominent livestreamer Li Jiaqi,and other hard-sell streamers in the market.This unique diff
197、erentiation has generated much discussion on RED.138 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 139The success of this collaboration rests on Dong Jies quiet sell approach,including her set-up,product selection and personal image which appeals to customer groups that understand the poetics and beauty of a
198、 refined yet relaxing lifestyle.With the interest in this kind of social e-commerce livestreaming,brands are targeting celebrities or KOL live streamers who have a large,overlapping audience.This can help to expand brand exposure and promote the brand story in a way that resonates with target consum
199、ers.Steven Oo himself has an impressive network of celebrity and KOL friends that he has cultivated over the years.This network has been instrumental in helping him increase the brands reach and connect with a wider audience.For Spring 23,he invited his circle of friends to attend the offline show,w
200、hich further generated excitement among fans.140 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 141WEBSITE PH5.COMWECHAT PH5OFFICIALWEIBO PH5 官方微博RED PH5OFFICIALINSTAGRAM PH5OFFICIALTMALL PH5 旗舰店Founded by Zoe Champion and Wei Lin,PH5 is based on the intricate patterns and innovative treatment of yarns derive
201、d from computer programming.The trailblazing label questions the traditional perception of knitwear,offering a laboratory of experimentation with silhouettes,materials and highly advanced techniques.Sleek and structured,the PH5 look hinges upon architectural forms executed in sophisticated,elaborate
202、 textiles that often play with gender and motifs such as trompe loeil.PH5 is an advocate for positive change under a number of initiatives.PH5 is size inclusive and seasonless.In 2020,it became an official partner of the One-for-One programme from a reforestation non-profit organisation.It created a
203、 CGI avatar,known as Ama to monitor its environmental activity in 2021 and in 2022 it published its own sustainability report focused on traceability.It shows on schedule at New York Fashion Week and has collaborated with Kith,Mini,Fitbit and Lane Crawford.PH5142 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS
204、 143PH5 concludes every WeChat post with a statement that reflects its forward-thinking approach:We are designing beyond products;we are redefining knitwear for future generations.This isnt just a fresh take on knitwear,but its a declaration of the brands deeper values.It also reassures customers th
205、at knitwear isnt just for the colder monthsits a year-round fashion choice.144 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 145PH5 has sustainability at its core.The brands push for more sustainable transport options,such as walking or cycling,is part of its broader ethical mission.Since the Fall 17 collect
206、ion,it has been consistent in making sure that at least 30 percent of its collection includes eco-friendly yarns.Technology plays a key role in the brands ethos.Each piece of clothing carries a QR code.This allows customers to follow the lifecycle of their garment,ensuring full transparency.And,PH5
207、doesnt stop there,even decorative beads are made from recycled plastics,highlighting the brands commitment to the planet.146 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 147WEIBO ZIIICIIEN 支晨RED 支晨DOUYIN 支晨TMALL ZIIICIIEN 支晨旗舰店Born in Xiamen,Zhi Chen graduated from the London College of Fashion and in 2017,
208、became the founder and creative director of the brand i-am-chen.It won numerous awards and achieved great acclaim for its technical fabrications and striking use of colour blocking.It was exhibited in the Design Museum(London)and commissioned by New Yorks MoMA to create a piece for its groundbreakin
209、g 2017 fashion exhibition,Items:Is Fashion Modern?After i-am-chen disbanded,Zhi launched ZI II CI IEN in 2020 which continues to advance the designers love of bold colour experimentation,intricate textile innovation,and the blurring of boundaries between art and daily life.It shows at Shanghai Fashi
210、on Week and collaborated with Azi a member of the virtual idol group popular on the platform Bilibili for its Spring 22 runway.ZI II CI IEN has also undertaken a project with The Yichang Museum in Hubei.The brand has around 60 stockists worldwide including Lane Crawford,Paris Tom Greyhound and Farfe
211、tch.ZI II CI IEN148 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 149150 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 151Instead of solely focusing on her products,Chen is another designer that uses her persona to connect more deeply with her fans.She regularly shares content on her RED account ranging from product
212、recommendations to personal development to fashion insider tips.So far it has 18,000 followers often with up to 74,000 likes and shares on various topics.This engaging approach avoids the pitfall of the brand seeming disconnected from the ordinary lives of consumers.Rather,Chen comes across as an in
213、spiring example for fashion school graduates,young designers and female entrepreneurs,in particular,to pursue their dreams with courage,intuition,and daily inspiration.Cultivating authenticity and conveying sincerity is an effective way to bridge the communication gap and make brands more relatable.
214、152 TEXTILE INNOVATORSTEXTILE INNOVATORS 153Textile InnovatorsBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersSWAYING/KNITSWAYING KNITSWAYING_KNITPH5PH5 官方微博PH5.COMOSMOSTHEBRANDOSMOSOSMOSTHEBRAND.NET 支晨ZI II CI IEN ZIIICIIEN 支晨NAN KNITS NAN_KNITS_OFFICIALNANKNITSWith our China Marketing Strategy service a
215、t Alarice,we provide you with the tools and insights to craft your unique narrative,engage your target audience,and stand out in the crowded fashion landscape.Lets redefine your brand story togetherThese designers have harnessed the power of celebrity collaborations,emotive brand philosophy,and pers
216、onal branding to connect deeply with their audience and differentiate themselves in the market.Let Gemma A.Williams take your brand narrative beyond borders.Her expertise in writing and curation weaves cultural threads that engage and captivate a global audience.PERFECTING YOUR CHINA MARKETING STRAT
217、EGY?ALARICE CAN HELP.SCAN HERE TELL YOUR STORY WITH CULTURAL DEPTH AND ELEGANCE.SCAN HERE TO COLLABORATE WITH GEMMA ON YOUR FASHION NARRATIVE.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA154 TEXTILE INNOVATORSThe New WaveTHE NEW WAVE 157WEBSITE RUOHAN.COWECHAT RUOHAN OFFICIALWEIBO RUOHAN_OFFICIALRED RUOHAN
218、 OFFICIALDOUYIN RUOHANINSTAGRAM RUOHAN.CONot to be underestimated,Ruohan is a newcomer established in March 2021 by Nie Ruohan.Focusing on“everyday luxury womenswear”it is grounded in exceptional fabrics,impeccable details and precise tailoring,creating timeless and quiet,wardrobe staples for sophis
219、ticated consumers.Informed by travel,art and literature,the brand uses an abstract design language and embodies the style of modern minimalism,usually centred around a neutral colour palette.Nie received her Bachelors in Fashion Design from Parsons School of Design in 2020.During her undergrad,she a
220、lso spent time in Paris and London at Parsons Paris and Central Saint Martins,respectively.Before going solo she worked or interned at some renowned brands including The Row,Melitta Baumeister,and La Garconne.In March 2022,Ruohan was a finalist for Chinas Yu Prize and has already secured 60 stockist
221、s worldwide.It made the audacious jump to the Paris Fashion Week schedule for Spring 23 and released a collaboration with local cashmere conglomerate Erdos in September.RUOHAN158 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 159Designer knitwear is having a moment in China.Ruohan has capitalised on that rise in interest
222、 through a partnership with Erdos a cashmere giant in the country.Together,theyve produced a line of 28 luxurious items,including cashmere pieces,silk suits,and outerwear.In September 2023,the capsule collection was launched,telling the tale of cashmeres authenticity.The design team visited Erdos in
223、 Inner Mongolia to delve into the origins and processing of cashmere,witnessing its journey from raw fibre to finished product.It chronicled the day-to-day life in Ejina Qi,observing how locals and cashmere coexist and turned these insights into a documentary.This collaboration has boosted Ruohans p
224、rofile,with the#ERDOSxRUOHAN Capsule collection#hashtag attracting more than 105,000 views on RED.160 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 161162 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 163WEBSITE LOUISSHENGTAOCHEN.CNWECHAT LOUIS SHENGTAO CHENWEIBO LOUISSHENGTAOCHENRED LOUIS SHENGTAO CHENDOUYIN LOUIS SHENGTAO CHENINSTAGRAM LO
225、UISSHENGTAOCHENA former fashion model,Louis Shengtao Chen graduated from Central Saint Martins and set up his namesake brand in 2021.As one of the newest brands in the list,it has already come to global attention by securing a number of prestigious awards and nominations including the British Fashio
226、n Council BA Scholarship in 2019,the LVMH Grand Prix Scholarship in 2020,a 2022 Yu Prize finalist and semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023.Based in Chongqing,the magnetic designer is fast becoming known for his magpie creations drawn from unconventional fabrics,hyper colourations and a Y2K aesth
227、etic.Chen sees his brand as“an ever-evolving ode to celebrate life,beauty,attitude and dreams and his cheerful outlook is resonating with local fans and consumers alike.Stockists include SND,Labelhood,Nound Nound and Galeries Lafayette.LOUIS SHENGTAO CHEN164 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 165Louis Shengta
228、o Chens fashion brand has gained popularity without any formal brand ambassadors.Instead,many celebrities have been spotted wearing its designs in high-profile magazines like IDest and Vogue.This exposure has boosted the brands visibility.Other stars seen in looks include acclaimed actresses Zanilia
229、 Zhao and Ni Ni,and the widely followed girl idol Chaoyue Yang,among others.Notably,celebrated singer Hua Chenyu,with an impressive 37 million Weibo followers,wore the brands Blue Rose Knight special edition at his concert.This custom collection designed exclusively for him has garnered it much atte
230、ntion and acclaim from his fanbase.166 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 167168 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 169WEIBO SHIELYU 悉麓RED SHIE LYU 悉麓DOUYIN SHIELYU 悉麓INSTAGRAM SHIE.LYUHailing from Chongqing,Shie Lyu has a global background and studied at Parsons School of Design.Lyu established her brand in 2020 to ex
231、plore the possibilities of craftsmanship and the artistic value of fashion.Each collection features handcrafted pieces that are produced sustainably by recycling dead-stock.Lyu likes to call herself an engineer or a technophile rather than a fashion designer and through techniques such as 3D embroid
232、ery,weaving or crochet,these leftover materials find a new function.Shie Lyu has received a number of accolades since its inception.These include a finalist of the Yu Prize 2021,at ITS International Talent Support 2019 and a semi-finalist for the HM Design Award 2019.It was selected for the Vogue US
233、 annual creative project Designer Swap and has collaborated with Stella McCartney,Genesis,Swarovski,Ultrasuede,and Tiamat.Annual sales for 2022 topped$300,000,up 30%on the previous year.In July 2023,it was nominated for the Vogue China Fashion Fund 2023 award.SHIE LYU SHIE LYU170 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW
234、 WAVE 171172 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 173Shie Lyu is making waves with cross-industry partnerships.That same month,the brand joined forces with Grazia China and Roborock,famed for its smart cleaning tech,to create a short film titled“The Distance Between Me and Me,”which delves into themes of beauty
235、 and fashion through a female lens.The film went viral,racking up over 8.35 million views and sparking nearly 7,000 discussions online.This type of innovative collaboration marked a strategic path for Shie Lyu moving forward.In November 2023,celebrated Chinese actress Gulnazar showcased Shie Lyus ne
236、west design at the Vogue China Fashion Funds Forces of Fashion event which earned substantial exposure for the brand.174 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 175WECHAT ZHONG ZIXINRED ZHONG ZIXINDOUYIN ZHONG ZIXININSTAGRAM ZHONGZIXIN_OFFICIALTAOBAO ZHONG ZIXINBorn in 1993 in the Chengzhong District(Liuzhou),Zhon
237、g Zixin has a background in sculptural fine arts and graduated from Central Saint Martins Womenswear Design in 2018.Her MA collection was presented the same year at London Fashion Week.Since then,Zhong has participated in numerous art exhibitions in cities like Shenzhen,Guangxi,Shanghai,and Los Ange
238、les.The designer label was founded in 2020 Shanghai and from 2021,has shown at Shanghai Fashion Week.Using meticulous camouflage and techniques,it inventively narrativises clothing on the runway.Autumn 23s collection Woman Kills was inspired by literature and storytelling,taking its starting point a
239、s the Murder mongress doyenne of the crime genre,Agatha Christie,and her suspenseful novels.In a short space of time,Zixin Zhong has found acclaim at home.In July 2023,it was nominated for the Vogue China Fashion Fund 2023 award which it won in November that year.ZIXIN ZHONGZIXIN ZHONG176 THE NEW WA
240、VETHE NEW WAVE 177Zhong Zixin understands the strategic nuance required to navigate Chinas many platforms.In November 2023,Vogues Forces of Fashion in Shanghai and the hashtag Vogue Forces of Fashion received 2.38 billion views and secured 35.99 million interactions.As the winner of the Vogue China
241、Emerging Designer Award,Zhong herself attended this event,and her brand name has now begun to percolate more and more on social media.Zhong Zixin is actively leveraging this exposure with audiences in RED.Posts share each seasons new products,telling the stories behind such as how they were made and
242、 their inspirations;this brings the brand closer to consumers.KOLs have been sharing unboxing videos of products on the platform which increases its exposure.As of December 2023,the hashtag#Zhongzixin has had more than a million views.178 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 179180 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 181W
243、ECHAT JACQUES WEIWEIBO JACQUES-WEIRED JACQUES WEIDOUYIN JACQUES WEIINSTAGRAM JACQUESWEI.STUDIOTMALL JACQUES WEIJacques Wei cuts a striking figure.Unlike his contemporaries,he has taken an alternative route to design by graduating from Paris Atelier Chardon Savard in the 2010s.He worked in the fashio
244、n capital for seven years before launching his eponymous Shanghai brand in 2020.Specialising in womens RTW,Weis 90s-inspired approach is founded in the sensuality of clean modern silhouettes inspired by mens tailoring and sumptuous,elevated fabrics.Collections have been well received at home,securin
245、g it coverage in prestigious publications like Vogue China,T Magazine and Bazaar China,as well as further afield in Dazed and Love Magazine.Its also collaborated with local retailers including Look Know,Labelhood and Nound Nound.Further bolstering its global appeal,the line was selected by the luxur
246、y retailer Mytheresa for its inaugural China Designer Programme which retailed worldwide from March 2023.His 90s-inspired capsule featured oversized suits,minimal dresses and bold cutouts as tribute to the decades muses.JACQUES WEI182 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 183184 THE NEW WAVETHE NEW WAVE 185One i
247、nnovative strategy adopted by Jacques Wei has been to dip its toes into Chinas surging pet market.In 2022,iiMedia Research found that the pet industry soared to 493.6 billion yuan,up by 25 percent,with predictions to grow to 811.4 billion yuan by 2025.In response to this boom,the brand introduced“Ja
248、cques Pets a line designed to meet the increasing needs of Chinas flourishing pet economy(often modelling by his own dog).It donates 10 percent of its profits to shelters for homeless pets.This commitment to animal welfare is likely to resonate with younger consumers,especially Gen Z,who are increas
249、ingly mindful of social and environmental issues.By aligning with important social values,brands like Jacques Pets can connect more authentically with the younger market.THE NEW WAVE 187186 THE NEW WAVELOUISSHENGTAOCHENThe New WaveBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersLOUIS SHENGTAO CHENZHONG ZI
250、XINSHIE.LYUZIXIN ZHONGSHIE LYUJACQUES WEI JACQUES-WEIRUOHANJACQUESWEI.STUDIORUOHAN_OFFICIAL SHIELYU 悉麓LOUISSHENGTAOCHEN.CNRUOHAN.COZHONGZIXIN_OFFICIALWith our China Consumer Research service at Alarice,we can help you uncover insights into your customers behaviours and preferences,enabling you to cr
251、eate a unique value proposition and stand out in the market.In an industry where trends evolve rapidly,understanding your consumers needs and preferences is crucial.Brands like Zhong Zixin and Jacques Wei have succeeded in the market by creating unique,engaging experiences and products that resonate
252、 with their consumers.Whether its a collaboration with a high-profile figure,a focus on craftsmanship,or an expansion into new areas like pet fashion,these strategies have helped them stand out.From thought leadership to brand storytelling,Gemma A.Williams crafts content that captures the essence of
253、 China fashion.Her tailored approach ensures the right message resonates.WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT CHINA CONSUMERS?SCAN HERE TO ENLIST ALARICES HELP.SCAN HERE ELEVATE YOUR BRANDS VOICE WITH GEMMAS EXPERTISE.SCAN HERE FOR CONTENT THAT SETS YOUR BRAND APART.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA188 THE
254、 NEW WAVEThe DisruptersTHE DISRUPTERS 191WECHAT RUI-BUILTRED RUI-BUILTINSTAGRAM RUIOFFICIAL.MELove what makes you,you is the motto of the brand founded by Rui Zhou in 2019.Since then,Zhous impact on the industry has been notable whether thats picking up a joint win of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 202
255、1 or being selected by Alessandro Michele for the digital concept platform Gucci Vault.The brands instantly recognisable aesthetic is based on a second skin concept.This is achieved by using super elastic Lucra yarn designed with a special knitted lace pattern and applied with Swarovski pearl beadin
256、g in linking accessory techniques.Conceptually,the designer promotes the beauty of imperfection as well as embracing unfinished or unloved items.Zhous body conscious designs have graced the covers of countless fashion magazines(The Face,Dazed China and Teen Vogue),been worn in music videos(Solange K
257、nowles,Pink and Billie Eilish),and been seen on celebrities(Jennie Kim,Eileen Gu and Maisie Williams).Showing its bold,uncompromising collections at fashion weeks in Paris and Shanghai,Rui Built-as it is now known is stocked all over the world and exhibited in prestigious retail spaces.RUI-BUILT192
258、THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 193194 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 195RUI-built has had significant engagement through strategic collaborations with renowned companies,retailers,and well-known Chinese celebrities.In July 2023,a collaboration with Victorias Secret in China created substantial buzz on s
259、ocial media platforms,attracting around 50,000 views on RED and close to a million views on Weibo.The campaigns impact was amplified by endorsements from Chinese celebrities such as Yang Mi,He Sui,and Dilraba.Their public(and private)appearances in the pieces drew considerable attention,their substa
260、ntial social media following enhancing the brands visibility.Zhous retail strategy is comprehensive:a presence in brick-and-mortar stores and on prominent online platforms including JD and Tmall ensures its accessibility for consumers.A temporary pop-up store in July 2023 called Dare to Say Love a c
261、ollaboration with Labelhood in Shanghai tapped into the retailers unique appeal and community engagement.To integrate the online and offline experience,Rui Built encouraged online customers to share their love stories using specific hashtags and participate in offline events to win gifts.This multif
262、aceted approach not only generated excitement around the collaboration but also actively involved fans,enhancing the outreach and community connection.196 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 197WEBSITE BADBINCH.COMWEIBO BAD_BINCH_TONGTONGRED BAD BINCH TONGTONGDOUYIN BAD BINCH TONGTONGINSTAGRAM BAD_BINCH_TO
263、NGTONGTAOBAO BAD BINCH TONGTONGBad Binch TONGTONG,the brainchild of designer Terrence Zhou,is a New York City-based fashion brand that defies convention.With its bold and imaginative designs,the brand challenges perceptions of modern fashion and questions the future of the industry.Zhous approach to
264、 fashion is embodied in his use of sustainable materials and practices,as well as his rejection of traditional ideas of functionality in favour of emotion.This combination of sustainable innovation and creative expression has earned the brand widespread recognition and praise from leading industry p
265、ublications like Vogue,Teen Vogue,Hypebae,Dazed,Fashionista,and more.Zhous work has also caught the attention of some of the biggest names in fashion and pop culture,including Beyonc,Grimes and Sam Smith.Bad Binch TONGTONG was featured in Forbes 30 Under 30 and selected as a finalist for Vogue Fashi
266、on Fund China 2023.In 2022,Zhous designs made a splash at New York Fashion Week,earning further recognition and securing stockists worldwide.BAD BINCH TONGTONG198 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 199Bad Binch TONGTONG has effectively utilised celebrity influence to gain market traction.The brands clothi
267、ng has been sported by high-profile celebrities,including Carina Lau,Li Yuchun and Lisi Danni.These celebrities public appearances in Bad Binch TONGTONG attire have increased the brands exposure,drawing the attention of their fan bases and followers.In a move to engage with the local community,Bad B
268、inch TONGTONG presented its designs at THE BIG BANG!a physical exhibition hosted by MC HOUSE,a project by Marie Claire and curation agency Forge Curates.This exhibition,which spanned from October 27,2023,to February 27,2024,was strategically timed to align with the 6th anniversary of the Uniwalk Qia
269、nhai mall in Shenzhen.The showcase provided a platform for the brand to connect with a wider audience and immerse them in the creative world of Bad Binch TONGTONG.200 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 201202 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 203WEBSITE YUEQIQI.COMWECHAT YUEQIQIOFFICIALWEIBO YUEQIQI_RED YUEQI
270、QIINSTAGRAM _YUEQIQITAOBAO YUEQI QIYueqi Qi graduated from the knitwear pathway at Central Saint Martins in 2018 and emphasises intricate beadwork,hand craftsmanship and sustainable interventions in her work.The Guangzhou-based Qi considers her work sculptures in motion and is greatly inspired by a
271、time when the past and present coexisted harmoniously.Focused on the revitalisation of Chinese handicrafts,Qi worked in the embroidery atelier at luxury brand Chanel before launching her self-titled label in 2019.Alongside RUI-built,it was chosen by Alessandro Michele for his digital concept platfor
272、m Gucci Vault in 2020 and scooped an LVMH Prize semi-finalist spot in 2022.As well as being a firm favourite with Asian pop stars(she customised a laser cut bodysuit for Blackpinks Lisa at Coachella 2023)the brand now has a roster of international stockists from Londons Browns to Aesavant in Paris a
273、nd held a pop-up in GR8 Harajuku,Tokyo in December 2022.It staged its Autumn Winter 2023 there,where Qi was“overwhelmed by the love and support.”YUEQI QI204 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 205THE DISRUPTERS 207206 THE DISRUPTERSDuring 2023,YUEQI QI tailored creations for well-known Chinese idols and si
274、ngers such as Zhou Bichang,the TFboys,Yu Esther,Hua Chenyu,and Cai Xukun which has played a key role in the brands success.For example,a dress designed for Yu Esther went viral,racking up over 12 million views on Weibo.October 2023 marked an important milestone for the brand with the launch of a gro
275、undbreaking collaboration with UGG.This partnership represented the first joint venture between the two,showcasing a bold and avant-garde approach to innovation.The collaboration featured shoes that were a creative twist on the classic UGG boot design,using repurposed leftover materials such as shel
276、ls,pins and crystals.This breathed new life into the footwear conglomerate while highlighting Qis commitment to sustainable fashion practices.208 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 209WEIBO DIDU-OFFICIALRED DIDU WORLDWIDEINSTAGRAM DIDU_OFFICIALDu Di is one of a number of designers who opted to study in Be
277、lgium instead of the UK or the US.In 2019,she graduated from Antwerps Royal Academy of Fine Art after which,the designer established the brand Didu.Dus subversive and uber feminine designs promote self acceptance and encourage women to celebrate their bodies,bravely.The label aligns with the growing
278、 body positivity movement in China and is winning fans due to its disruptive,nonconformist stance.Collections celebrate a manifesto based on gender,society and equality.Based between Paris and Shanghai,the brand shows on schedule during Paris Fashion Week.Using vaporous sheet fabrics,Autumn 23 was a
279、 blend of western dedication and the refinement of Chinese dress using ballet attire and the qipao;standing colours and embroideries hinted at the subtle detailing behind the concept.Didu was selected by the luxury retailer Mytheresa for its inaugural China Designer Programme which had a global rele
280、ase in March 2023.In September 2023,it launched a collaboration with Italian company Add as part of Paris Fashion Week and other tie-up this time with a high profile American sportswear line is under discussion for summer 2024.DIDU210 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 211Celebrity collaboration and offli
281、ne events are the key strategies DIDU utilises to enhance its visibility and positioning in the market.By focusing on popular figures like Zhou Dongyu,Yu Esther and Liu Yuxin,these marketing efforts are helping to create a sense of exclusivity and desirability.The brand effectively leverages the inf
282、luence and popularity of these celebrities to promote the brand and attract a wider audience.212 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 213In order to engage the local community,Didu uses offline events effectively.In February 2023,it announced plans to launch a special storefront display at SND,a boutique st
283、ore in Chongqing China.In October 2023,it partnered with the Italian sportswear brand ADD and hosted a preview of the joint capsule collection at the Dumeng Tang Gallery in Shanghai.THE DISRUPTERS 215214 THE DISRUPTERSWEBSITE WINDOWSEN-OFFICIAL.COMWECHAT WINDOWSEN OFFICIALRED WINDOWSENWEIBO WINDOWSE
284、NINSTAGRAM WINDOWSENThis innovative brand envisions an inclusive,post-human world a dreamland where norms are erased and traditions are twisted.Sensen Lii is the brain behind 2018s provocative and unconventional Windowsen.Theatrical silhouettes and shapes traverse sportswear and couture in dynamic c
285、olour palettes.Lii honed his craft at The Royal Academy of Fine Art,Antwerp and since graduating,his label has picked up a committed fanbase from fans and buyers alike for its multiple lines(sporty-tech couture,ready-to-wear and sneakers).Autumn 21s collection Barbie with the Chinese Zodiac was a ri
286、ot of colour and a contemporary take on the 12 signs.Models walked the runway in theatrical pieces shaped as insects,a panda and a clown in exaggerated laser-cut ensembles.Collaborations in 2022 run to Absolut(advocating recycling),Mac,Byredo,Nike and Jaguar.Windowsen was the first Chinese designer
287、to dress all four members of Black Pink.Its currently stocked in Japan,Italy,the UK and US as well as at various stores domestically.WINDOWSEN216 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 217The hashtag#Windowswen#has surged in popularity on Weibo,amassing over 91 million views.A significant contributor to this
288、success is the brands strategy of designing concert outfits for a roster of famous Chinese idols and singers including Sammi Cheng,A-Mei and Jolin Tsai,which resonated well with their fans and heightened the brands visibility.Also notable is the brands sustainable fashion ethos;in February 2023,Abso
289、lut Vodka and the brand embarked on a joint venture to launch an eco-friendly recycled vase set.This collaboration was part of the Absolute Regeneration Plan,which highlights its commitment to promoting sustainable living practices.The limited-edition set featured items that represented both brands,
290、including a recycled glass vase,necklaces with iconic brand elements,original vodka products,co-branded t-shirts,and eco-friendly bags.Such initiatives showed the brands dedication to environmental responsibility and conscious consumption which aligns with the values of young Chinese consumers who a
291、re increasingly prioritising sustainability.218 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 219220 THE DISRUPTERSTHE DISRUPTERS 221BAD_BINCH_TONGTONGThe DisruptersBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersBAD BINCH TONGTONGRUI-BUILTDIDUYUEQI QIWINDOWSENWINDOWSENRUI-BUILTYUEQIQI_DIDU_OFFICIALRUIOFFICIAL.MEBADBINCH.
292、COMWINDOWSEN-OFFICIAL.COMDIDU-OFFICIAL YUEQIQI.COMAt Alarice,we offer a China Marketing Strategy service to help you develop a compelling brand story and identify potential partnerships and opportunities.Our team of experts can help you plan your market entry or expansion strategy,ensuring that your
293、 brand resonates with your target audience.Lets work together to create a marketing strategy that propels your brand to new heights in the Chinese market.With a unique blend of traditional and modern elements,bold designs,and a focus on authenticity,many have managed to create a strong appeal in the
294、 market.Theyve used strategic collaborations,powerful brand narratives,and social media engagement to build a distinct brand image.Gemma A.Williams brings exhibitions to life with her curatorial expertise,offering a narrative journey through fashions most compelling stories,with a special lens on Ch
295、ina.SCAN HERE TO LEARN HOW ALARICE CAN HELP YOU WITH YOUR CHINA STRATEGY.SCAN HERE SHOWCASE YOUR COLLECTION WITH CURATORIAL FLAIR.SCAN HERE TO PARTNER WITH GEMMA FOR YOUR NEXT EXHIBITION.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA222 THE DISRUPTERSThe ExplorersTHE EXPLORERS 225WECHAT LEAF XIARED LEAF XIA
296、 奇想世界WEIBO LEAF XIA_OFFICIALINSTAGRAM LEAFXIASTUDIOLeaf Xia is the creative director and founder of her eponymous label founded in 2015.Since then,her whimsical,colourful,separates have won her accolades and spots at global fashion weeks.A graduate of Parsons School of Design,Xias free spirit and ac
297、cessible design aesthetic has seen her show globally,moving from New York to London to Shanghai.Xia has resolutely followed her own artistic route,collaborating and releasing co-branded collections with many well-known international brands such as Magnum,Hello Kitty and Teletubbies.During the pandem
298、ic,the brand turned to digital design Xia sees the metaverse as a natural extension of her brand.In 2023,Leaf Xia was selected for the year-long incubator,Vfiles Lab 002 discovery class from Vfiles nonprofit foundation supporting creators.Her newest collection was produced in Qinghai province as a w
299、ay to support local women and incorporate the concept of intangible cultural heritage.LEAF XIALEAF XIA226 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 227The brand strategically collaborates with fashion bloggers and KOLs on RED,producing engaging and relatable content.Its RED profile highlights the distinctive visua
300、l stories told by a diverse range of small to medium-sized fashion KOLs,each with their own unique style.This strategy builds a lively community centred around delivering content that is not only bold but also embodies a romantic lifestyle ideal for the labels target audience independent,courageous
301、and passionate women.Additionally,Xia uses her personal RED account to share the inspiration behind her designs and to provide a deeper understanding of her collections concepts.228 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 229Leaf Xia made a notable appearance at Shanghai Fashion Week Digital in June 2022 an even
302、t hosted in the metaverse.Virtual fashion has seen a rise in popularity in recent years and the brand adapted to the challenges presented by the pandemic by pivoted to digital fashion design.It successfully sold virtual fashion on various local online platforms.These digital realms,including the met
303、averse and online platforms,are proving to be dynamic and innovative spaces for brands to connect with and captivate their audiences.230 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 231WEBSITE SOCIALWORKNY.COM WECHAT SOCIAL WORK STUDIORED SOCIAL-WORKWEIBO SOCIAL-WORK_STUDIOINSTAGRAM SOCIALWORK_STUDIOTAOBAO SOCIAL WOR
304、KFounded in 2018,Social-Work is a womenswear brand helmed by Italian-born,Shanghai-raised designer Zhang Chenghui.The designer moved to New York to study at Parsons School of Design,later gaining experience at Ralph Lauren and Phillip Lim.Now based between New York and Shanghai,the brand joins a gro
305、wing cohort of Chinese brands choosing to work from the US capital.Social-Works ethics lie in creating a dialogue around transparency and traceability.Zhang has said its about the“who,where and what”behind products and“bridging the cultural connection between customers and makers.”Social-Work takes
306、inspiration from all dimensions of life,art and contemporary culture,especially film,to create modern,versatile garments with a nostalgic twist.This vintage approach produces wearable designs including eye-catching,geometric prints and plaids in 90s,utilitarian fits.Zhangs line shows semi-annually a
307、t New York Fashion Week with collections designed there and produced in Shanghai.SOCIAL-WORK232 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 233Social-Work presents itself as a collective endeavour which recognises the significant role of the production process in creative work.By embedding this philosophy into the b
308、rands DNA and telling a captivating story,it ensures that consumers can clearly understand the contributions behind the scenes:Fans can see the production time,location,and portraits of employees on their official website.THE EXPLORERS 235234 THE EXPLORERSBy providing this transparency,customers can
309、 easily comprehend the journey from design to production,forging an emotional connection with the garments and fostering a deeper appreciation for each piece.Again,this appeals to younger shoppers who are more invested in ethical consumption.236 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 237WEBSITE DONSEE10.COMWECH
310、AT DONSEE10RED DONSEE10WEIBO DONSEE10INSTAGRAM DONSEE10STUDIODONSEE10 is a brand founded by designer Chen Danqi that is centred on Eastern philosophies and sustainable innovation.Conceptually,it is committed to exploring the symbiotic relationships between individuals and clothing,fashion and nature
311、,and to push the boundaries of ethical design.That results in clean cut,practical pieces in neutral tones that are suitable for daily wear as part of a timeless wardrobe regularly updated made to colours or materials each season.DONSEE10 is part of the charity ActAsia and,as such,is committed to bei
312、ng fur-free,chooses standardised,local suppliers and automated supply chains from Hempel Co.,Ltd Chinas largest womens processing enterprise.In 2021,it was awarded the Yu Prize Sustainability Champion for a bag design inspired by biodynamic grape harvesting.Collections use organic cotton,recycled po
313、lyester fibre,and environmentally-friendly leather alternatives.Shanghai Fashion Weeks Autumn 23 collection featured up to 90 percent environmentally-friendly materials.The inspiration for that collection came from an exploration into tensions between masculinity and femininity,opposition and unity
314、and the relationship between the modern urban environment and the vastness of nature.DONSEE10 238 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 239According to the World Health Organization,COVID-19 pandemic triggered a 25 percent increase in prevalence of anxiety and depression worldwide.As a result,peoples focus on
315、their quality of life and mental well-being has significantly increased.Many individuals are shifting their lifestyles and rediscovering the joy of reconnecting with nature and the outdoors.This shift has led to a profound exploration of the relationship between humans and the natural environment wh
316、ich has become the core philosophy of DONSEE10.240 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 241Given the growth in sustainable lifestyles and vintage fashion,extending the lifespan of clothing has become an urgent task for DONSEE10.Overall,it strives to meet the evolving needs of individuals seeking a higher qual
317、ity of life by promoting sustainability and reconnecting with nature through their fashion offerings.242 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 243WEBSITE TOMMYZHONG.COMWECHAT TOMMY ZHONGRED TOMMY ZHONG WEIBO TOMMYZHONGSTUDIOINSTAGRAM TOMMYZHONGSTUDIOTommy Zhong was founded in London jointly by Zhong and Jenny
318、Nelson in 2016.Zhong graduated with an MA in fashion and textiles from The Glasgow School of Art.Early campaigns were styled by one of Chinas leading stylists,Audrey Hu,as the duo quickly showed off its attention to detail,versatile tailoring and diverse pattern cutting.It also produced unique fabri
319、cs developed in-house that emphasised innovative,hand-finished textiles and materials,advocating that“textiles can be used as a canvas to convey your message.”During the pandemic,the pair decided to amicably part ways and the brand is now helmed by Zhong from his Shanghai atelier.It joined Not Showr
320、oom in 2020 and focused on cultivating domestic stockists.That year it announced a partnership with Erdos for Autumn Winter 2020 and continues to be one to watch.TOMMY ZHONG244 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 245Creating an enticing environment that encourages customers to make purchases is a crucial con
321、sideration for every designer brand.Tommy Zhong utilises social media platform RED to engage with the audience in a lighthearted manner.The brand adopts a season-based content approach,focusing on themes such as Outfits of the early spring.Through this,it captures the essence of the season and offer
322、s valuable dressing tips to potential customers,creating a refreshing and informative experience.246 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 247Pop-up stores continue to feature on brand strategies.In a recent collaboration with Shanghai retailer Nound Nound(from March to April 2023),Tommy Zhong established an e
323、nchanting offline pop-up store.This visually captivating and romantic space allowed consumers to explore and immerse themselves physically in the brands offerings.248 THE EXPLORERSTHE EXPLORERS 249LEAFXIASTUDIODONSEE10.COMSOCIALWORKNY.COMThe ExplorersBig Thanks to These Contributing DesignersSOCIAL-
324、WORKTOMMY ZHONG DONSEE10SOCIAL-WORK_STUDIOTOMMYZHONGSTUDIODONSEE10LEAF XIALEAF XIA_OFFICIAL TOMMYZHONG.COMWith Alarices China Consumer Research,we can help you navigate this dynamic landscape,understand the shifting consumer behaviour,and identify the key trends shaping the future of fashion in Chin
325、a.Our tailored research can provide you with a deep understanding of what your consumers value and how to meet their evolving needs and expectations.Emerging Chinese fashion designers are reshaping the fashion landscape with their innovative strategies.Theyre utilising the metaverse,leveraging KOL c
326、ollaborations,embracing transparency,and fostering sustainable practices,all while creating engaging social media content and immersive offline experiences.Tap into the essence of Chinas fashion scene with Gemma A.Williams,a curator and writer whose expertise is second to none.With a well-honed eye
327、for the next big trend and a deep understanding of cultural undercurrents,Gemma provides invaluable insights that can transform your brands approach to one of the worlds most dynamic markets.NEED HELP UNDERSTANDING YOUR CHINA CONSUMERS?ALARICE CAN HELP.SCAN HERE HARNESS THE POWER OF EXPERTISE FOR YO
328、UR BRAND.SCAN HERE TO GAIN UNPARALLELED INDUSTRY INSIGHTS FROM GEMMA.SCAN HERE CONTACT ALARICECONTACT GEMMA250 THE EXPLORERSCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONCONCLUSIONIn 2024,creativity continues to flourish.Hundreds of new brands la
329、unched and many existing ones solidified their fan bases during Chinas unprecedented period of lockdowns.For some,sales peak during 2020 and 2021.While brands found 2022 a challenge,reports indicate that consumption rose again during 2023 and is set to continue well into this decade,despite a cautio
330、us post-pandemic recovery.As China reopens,there are many bright spots for designer brands.While there are difficulties showing abroad,numerous brands are back to or even debuting on international fashion week schedules.Big global companies continue to look at local talent for collaborations and par
331、tnerships,seeing these young designers as key to unlocking the needs and wants of Chinas youth.At home,Chinese consumers are even more well-informed than ever and opting for brands that express their cultural identity in ways that international and bigger names cannot.The brands cited in this report
332、 and more are filling this gap.This decade will be game-changing.Chinas independent designers are durable and nimble.They command attention and the world is taking note.They are the future of the fashion industry.CONCLUSION 253252 CONCLUSIONCOPYRIGHT AND DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISC
333、LAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERDISCLAIMERCOPYRIGHT 2024 ALARICE INTERNATIONAL LIMITED IN COLLABORATION WITH GEMMA A.WILLIAMS.ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.THIS REPORT OR ANY PORTION THEREOF MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR USED IN ANY MANNER WHATSOEVER WITHOUT THE EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER ALARICE INTERNATIONAL LIMITED EXCEPT FOR THE USE OF BRIEF QUOTATIONS FOR REFERENCE P